Week 4
KMODT Why It Works by Deb Kidwell
This week’s objective is subordination. The dictionary definition of subordination is the following: the act of placing in a lower rank or making dependent, secondary, or subservient. While we may think of this as a negative, for our dog it is actually a positive. Dogs look to people for leadership because they know that people have more control over their environment and can provide food, shelter and safety. In return, dogs provide companionship, assistance and otherwise serve as a helpmate. As handlers, we structure the training environment such that we can model, shape, and achieve the desired behavior.
This week’s skills include:
Figure Eight (beginning with the hourglass pattern)
Stand
Placed Down
Sit/stay with distractions (including sight, smell, taste, touch and hearing)
Approach by a stranger
Recall and SSIF or the Straight Sit in Front
Left About Turn
Without going into the exact process for teaching each skill, let’s consider why it works. Beginning with the Figure Eight, the hourglass pattern allows us to bridge over from something the dog already knows (left and right turns) to a new skill, rounding out the heeling pattern into the circle. The overarching principle is to break this learning experience into small steps from the known to the unknown skill. Dogs learn in pictures and in small steps. If your dog has trouble with any given concept, consider breaking the skill into smaller pieces; teach each piece separately, then put them together systematically to complete the learning process. Mr. Koehler has already broken down the process for the basic obedience course for us but instilling this principle will allow us to teach any given behavior in the future.
There are a few key elements to the Stand:
1) placing the right foot in front of the dog,
2) arranging the leash and collar so that we can place a small amount of pressure forward from under the chin and,
3) encouraging the dog to stand (straighten the rear legs) by also patting or lifting up in the belly or flank area.
Placing the right foot in front of the dog tells the dog (remember our footwork) to stay put and thus not move the front paws forward in a sprawling movement. When we encourage the dog into a Stand, then, the only option for the dog is to straighten the rear legs in a perfect Kick-Back Stand movement. Again, we are controlling the options of movement to shape the behavior we desire. Pressure from under the chin signals that this behavior is different from the other skills we are working on such as the Sit/Stay where the pressure comes from above and to the side.
As we continue to stroke the dog’s withers, they are encouraged to stay put, which is also the behavior we want to see. Moving counterclockwise around the dog ensures that the dog initially stays put because we walk in front. Once this behavior is encouraged and praised, it becomes habit. Initially, this seems like a complicated movement, but keep at it and both you and the dog will learn to accomplish the skill flawlessly. The key elements are again, step in front with the right foot while applying pressure from under the chin and pat the dog’s belly or flank area to encourage the Stand. The correction for the dog breaking the Stand is introduced this week.
The Placed Down works because we are again, giving the dog little option by sweeping the legs out from under with one hand, while hovering over the dog and applying downward pressure with the other. In Days 1 and 2, we establish the desired behavior and in Days 3 and 4, we begin to pair the behavior with a command. If the dog resists the Placed Down, we are able to force the behavior with the full weight of our body from a position of strength. Again, we are narrowing the dog’s options to the correct behavior.
In the Sit/Stay, we are applying backward and upward pressure on the leash, which is different from any other cue we are teaching and distinguishes the behavior as a unique movement. By introducing ever increasing levels of distraction, we are proofing the behavior and communicating to the dog that he or she must comply no matter what is going on in the immediate area. No behavior is truly learned unless the dog can perform with distractions and the authority of the handler is truly at stake here. If your dog “believes” that you always expect the behavior, it is certainly less apt to run into the street or other dangerous situation.
Therefore, we should always eventually “generalize” the behaviors by introducing new situations to practice already-learned skills. For example, we can generalize the Down/Stay by placing our dog in a Down/Stay in the backseat of a car with the doors open. This is another safety skill that comes in handy in traffic, but also teaches the dog that Sit or Down/Stay means exactly that – to Sit or Down/Stay, no matter where or whatever else is going on around in the parking lot, driveway or anywhere else. We are teaching behaviors, but we are also teaching credibility of the handler, and reliability of the dog.
The Approach by a Stranger, SSIF and the Recall are again crucial skills that we are teaching incrementally. The Left About Turn is introducing to the dog the concept that it CAN now move around behind the handler and ‘find’ Heel position. These methods work because we are slowly shaping a complex skill by breaking it down into small steps. Each step builds on the previous step, so be careful to teach each step as instructed.
It’s a lot to learn this week, but it is certainly doable, so don’t become discouraged. Break each skill into pieces as instructed and have a great week!
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