Week 3:
Dog learns to take responsibility for heel position
and to work away from its handler
Pre/Post-Training Session protocol
__________________________________________________________________
Know when to use the OUT! in public. By now, you understand how to use the OUT! when your dog is doing the LLLL. In public, use of the OUT! may change in volume. There may be times when using your DRAGOON voice is not appropriate. Still, you can use the OUT! effectively by lowering the volume of your OUT! but not the pitch or intensity of the OUT! Dogs have remarkable hearing and read body language very well. They will hear a quiet, OUT! and read your body language clearly. In time, the HOMEWORK Week 2: The "OUT!" as demonstrated with a dam and her litterOUT! will be used at a distance and without any collar attached to the dog.
Review: Understanding the difference between a ‘correction’ and an ‘applied punisher’. Tony Ancheta, head of Koehler Dog Training, states the following:
“A leash and collar can be used as a correction - if the effect is to increase the frequency of a target behavior in the future.
A leash and collar can be used as a punisher - if the effect is to decrease the frequency of some unwanted behavior in the future.”
Let’s talk then about the “Out!” which is an Applied Punisher which means “STOP IT NOW”. There are 4 behaviors to watch for in a dog that justifies using the “OUT!” Remember, the 4 “L-s”
L = Look
L = Lock
L = Load
L = Lunge
When you want to “STOP” the dog’s behavior at the Look, or at the Lock, or at the Load. If the dog is already at the Lunge, it’s too late. Each dog has its own telltale signs of its LLLL dynamics so you watch the dog. For instance, a dog that is biting another dog or a human is already at the Lunge stage so the opportunity to effectively communicate to the said dog “STOP THIS NOW!” has passed. That doesn’t mean you don’t use the “OUT!”, it just means you need to pay more attention to that dog to know what its LLLL dynamics are respond more quickly.
For instance. Can you use the “OUT!” when the dog has a dirty thought, is eyeing another dog, is growling or hackled and thinking about lunging? Yes. Where? Look at it from this perspective.
Dog has a dirty thought = Look
Dog is eyeing another dog = Lock
Dog is growling or hackling = Load
At any of these first three “L’s”, use the “OUT!” to stop the dog’s behavior. If you wait….
Dog lunges = Lunge. The action is done already. So pay attention to your dog, learn to recognize their specific LLLL dynamics, and respond correctly, timely and effectively. Remember:
A leash and collar can be used as a punisher - if the effect is to decrease the frequency of some unwanted behavior in the future.” This is when the leash and collar is the punisher for using “OUT!”
_____________________________________________________________________________
New Material:
Heeling mechanics taught this week put more responsibility on the dog to find ‘the Safety Zone’ by your left side, including Pace Changes. Dog will also learn to work away from you and maintain responsibility for its position.
During Week 1, the LL ‘the Safety Zone’ was a 5’ radius on your left side.
Week 2 on heeling on the leash, the ‘the Safety Zone’ was 3’ by your left side. The dog’s head is aligned with the seam of your left pant leg, his rear should be in line with this head while his shoulders/hips travel the same parallel line you are walking. Pace used is Normal = a pace that keeps the dog striding out (no time for lollygagging) where the dog must focus on handler in order to ‘read’ its body language.
Week 3, ‘the Safety Zone’ shrinks to within a 15" - 18" radius on your left side. This allows the knee to do the work load communicating to the dog, as you making your turns, what direction it is to go.
Pace changes introduced of Slow = ½ the speed of Normal, handler walks more on their heels, shoulders back as they slow up. Dog can read the subtle body changes and learn to understand the shift in how handler walks means to slow its pace. Pace changes introduced of FAST = 2x the speed of Normal, handlers left elbow is bend at 90 degree angle and left arm held at chest height and free-swinging. Handler’s body should lean forward also as handler breaks into a run. . Dog can read these body changes and learn to understand the shift in how handler moves means to increase its pace.
THIS WEEK TURNS ARE NO LONGER REFERRED TO AS‘TRAINING TURNS’ but simply referred to as ‘turns’.
Dog is forging ahead of you = Right About Turn (t, t, baby step, full step making a 180 degree turn on a straight line)
Dog is lagging behind or wide (more than 2’) away from you = Right Turn (take a sharp 90 degree turn to your right then take 1-2 running steps and continue to heel)
Dog is just beginning to forge ahead of you (within 1’ of your left leg) = Left Turn (snub leash up with left hand on thigh as you simultaneously make sharp left turn into your dog’s chest and continue to heel)
SIT/STAY
Days 1 & 2 dog is learning, for the first time, to hold a position. So, to set the dog up for success, we start close to the dog, in low levels of distractions, for very short times (seconds). When you come to a Halt, give the hand signal close to the dogs eye and either the dog does an Auto Sit (no verbal from you) in 1 second OR gets a Sit Correction.
From there, work the collar high and snug clear under the chin of the dog, the feed of the leash comes out between the dogs ears on the top of the dogs head and you hold the leash with slight upward pressure (left hand) to keep the collar from slipping, then take your right hand with leash in it and replace your left hand still maintaining slight upward pressure.
Command the dog “Sit” (it is the polite thing to do even though the dog is already in a Sit, the verbal Sit at this point reinforces the dogs understanding), use your left hand, fingers open, a few inches in front of dogs face as you command, “Stay”, step off with your right foot as you turn and face your dog approximately 1’ away continuing the slight upward pressure on leash.
Wait 10 seconds, smile at your dog, then Step Back to your Dog, relax the leash pressure (slack leash and right hand back into Walking Position), praise your dog.
End each Sit/Stay with an Exercise Finish (1 step halt/auto Sit). Start with 10 seconds, then 15 seconds, and up to 60 seconds where dog holds its Sit/Stay position without moving. If the dog moves, simply step towards dog, do 2 hands on leash and a Sit Correction, then step back to facing the dog. If dog is struggling to hold at 30 seconds, make sure levels of distractions are low and go back to doing Sit/Stay at 20 seconds or 10 seconds. The point is the dog needs to understands Stay = Stay and we are going to help set the dog up to succeed.
As dog understands Stay=Stay, increase the time from 10 seconds all the way up to 60 seconds. Test the dogs understanding at 60 seconds by also increasing the levels of distractions. By end of Day 2, dog should be able to hold a Sit/Stay for 60 seconds in high levels of distractions.
Days 3 & 4 are the same mechanics, but the distance between dog and handler now goes from 1’ to approximately 1 ½ feet away from dog (1 and ½ steps). Same method, same sequencing. Start at 10 seconds in low levels of distractions, praise (smile) or correct, Step Back to Dog, slack leash, praise,& Exercise Finish. Then increase time to 20 seconds, repeat method/sequencing, then 30 seconds etc., up to a minute.
Always the same method and sequencing is used. *IMPORTANT* What changes? When you increase the distance, you must start over with the shortest time and the lowest level of distraction. As dog gains understanding in what you want it to do, then you increase time and distraction levels.
Days 5 & 6 are the same mechanics, but the distance between dog and handler now goes from 1 1/2’ to approximately 5’ away from dog (2 and ½ steps). Same method, same sequencing. Start at 10 seconds in low levels of distractions, praise (smile) or correct, Step Back to Dog, slack leash, praise,& Exercise Finish. Then increase time to 20 seconds, repeat method/sequencing, then 30 seconds etc., up to a minute.
Always the same method and sequencing is used. *IMPORTANT* What changes? When you increase the distance, you must start over with the shortest time and the lowest level of distraction. As dog gains understanding in what you want it to do, then you increase time and distraction levels.
STAND-DONE SILENTLY
Days 1-3 dog is learning, for the first time, to hold a new position. Just like the Sit, the Stand is taught silently for the first 3 days so no commands, you are just shaping the dog. So, to set the dog up for success, start in low levels of distractions, for very short times (seconds). From a Sit, the right hand pulls leash ever so slightly forward in front of dogs face about 2-4”. At the same time, handlers right foot moves from heel position to approx 1’ (depends on size of dog) at a 90 degree angle so dog doesn’t Stand and move forward very much. The left foot then moves between the dogs front/rear legs and will act as energy to move dog away from feet (stand) as the left hand strokes down dogs left side and gently lifts dog up with left hand on stomach.
Once the dog is in a Stand, handler is to stroke dog from head to shoulders ONLY. THIS IS NOT PETTING OR FONDLING, this is a deliberate light, ever so gentle, almost a tease stroke where dog will straighten up higher to get this sensation. This is called Conditioned Relaxation so this move needs to be pleasurable to the dog. You can also hover or bend over the dog to do the Conditioned Relaxation move as you want the dog comfortable with you being over its back. You will need this for Week 4 when the Down is taught.
There is NO correction for a Stand. YOU NEVER, EVER WANT A DOG TO SIT FROM A STAND AT THIS POINT IN THE TRAINING (and a broken Stand is ghastly to repair). So, should the dog move a foot, simply do an Exercise Finish immediately! Don’t wait, don’t get your leash in proper position, just move as you say “Heel”. The point is to help the dog to succeed so we ‘help’ the dog, should it move, by spitting out the command “Heel” like it was our idea all along.
You will want to go from 10 seconds to by the end of Day 6, dog stands beside you for 60 consecutive seconds.
*REMEMBER* There is NO correction for a Stand. YOU NEVER, EVER WANT A DOG TO SIT FROM A STAND AT THIS POINT IN THE TRAINING (and a broken Stand is ghastly to repair). So, should the dog move a foot, simply do an Exercise Finish immediately! Don’t wait, don’t get your leash in proper position, just move as you say “Heel”. The point is to help the dog to succeed so we ‘help’ the dog, should it move, by spitting out the command “Heel” like it was our idea all along.
You will want to go from 10 seconds to by the end of Day 3, dog stands beside you for 60 consecutive seconds.
PLACE
Days 1 & 2 use the Place Board to "Place" your dog on the board. Start close each time and send your dog to Place. As soon as steps up on board, use bridging word, "Yes" to encourage. "Place" is one of the few times you CAN repeat the command, so continue to command, "Place" until dog is on board. All 4 feet are to be on board at all times - once dog is on board, back away the full length of the leash. Should dog put one foot, or two, etc., on the ground, repeat your command and put them on the Place Board again. DO NOT START OVER...just get them back on the board. Dog must remain on board until you call dog off with a "Fido, Ok" or do a Return to your Dog.
Days 3 & 4 use the Place Board + the Negative Space on top of board to "Place" your dog on the board with the Negative Space. This is harder as the Negative Space can move off the Place Board. You are training your dog to get used to the PVC pipe and to step OVER the pipe. This teaches the dog responsibility in where it places its body Start close each time and send your dog to Place. As soon as dog steps up on board, use bridging word, "Yes" to encourage. "Place" is one of the few times you CAN repeat the command, so continue to command, "Place" until dog is on board. All 4 feet are to be on board at all times - once dog is on board, back away the full length of the leash. Should dog put one foot, or two, etc., on the ground, repeat your command and put them on the Place Board again. DO NOT START OVER...just get them back on the board. Dog must remain on board until you call dog off with a "Fido, Ok" or do a Return to your Dog. .
Days 5 & 6 use the Negative Space ONLY to "Place" your dog inside the Negative Space. THIS IS THE HARDEST OF ALL for the dog as the ground surfaces are the same inside and outside the Negative Space. Dog must remain inside the Negative Space until you call it out. Start close each time and send your dog to Place. As soon as steps up on board, use bridging word, "Yes" to encourage. "Place" is one of the few times you CAN repeat the command, so continue to command, "Place" until dog is on board. All 4 feet are to be on board at all times - once dog is on board, back away the full length of the leash. Should dog put one foot, or two, etc., on the ground, repeat your command and put them on the Place Board again. DO NOT START OVER...just get them back on the board. Dog must remain on board until you call dog off with a "Fido, Ok" or do a Return to your Dog.
Dog is to be placed on Place Board with Negative Space on top 20 x a day. You can call the dog off the board doing a release command, “Fido, Ok” or doing a Return to Your Dog (see video).
HEELING PATTERNS
Days 1 & 2 Increase your heeling distance/times. Include the Right About Turn, the Right Turn, the Left Turn, Pace changes of Normal, Slow and Fast, many Halts & Auto Sits now ( no verbal, just hands beside dog if they don’t sit within 1 second, hands become the Sit Correction). After every Sit, add an Exercise Finish (1 step halt/auto sit), then continue your heeling.
HEELING POSTS: As part of your heeling this week, find a place you can do the Heeling Posts on your dogs left side. Always, remember to start about 4-5' away on the first straight pass, then come closer and pass Heeling Post from 3-4' away, again on a straight pass, then come closer and pass the Heeling Post from 2-3' away, again on a straight pass. The final pass should be within 1'. The point of this exercise is to reduce the Safety Zone from 3' down to 1' OR less. This exercise teaches the dog that remaining close to you while heeling is the wise choice to make at all times. It also reduces the constant need to make turns to teach the dog that remaining close to you while heeling is the wise choice to make at all times. Rather impressive how fast the dogs learn when you incorporate the Heeling Posts as part of your everyday training routine.
Include the Sit/Stay here, there and everywhere. By end of Day 2, dog should be able to hold a Sit/Stay for 60 consecutive seconds. Include the Stand here, there and everywhere. By Day 3, dog should be able to hold a Stand for 60 consecutive seconds.
Dog is to be placed on Place Board 20 x a day. You can call the dog off the board doing a release command, “Fido, Ok” or doing a Return to Your Dog (see video).
Days 3 & 4 Increase your heeling distance/times. Include the Right About Turn, the Right Turn, the Left Turn, Pace changes of Normal, Slow and Fast, many Halts & Auto Sits now ( no verbal, just hands beside dog if they don’t sit within 1 second, hands become the Sit Correction). After every Sit, add an Exercise Finish (1 step halt/auto sit), then continue your heeling.
Body Bend Readiness Test due Day 4 (video will be uploaded)
Days 5 & 6 Heeling: Increase your heeling distance/times. Include the Right About Turn, the Right Turn, the Left Turn, Pace changes of Normal, Slow and Fast, many Halts & Auto Sits now ( no verbal, just hands beside dog if they don’t sit within 1 second, hands become the Sit Correction). After every Sit, add an Exercise Finish (1 step halt/auto sit), then continue your heeling.
HEELING POSTS: As part of your heeling this week, find a place you can do the Heeling Posts on your dogs left side. Now, on Days 5 & 6, start on the first straight pass of the Heeling Post from 1' - 2' away, again within 1' and the final pass should be with the Heeling Posts only 6" from your dogs left side.
The point of this exercise is to reduce the Safety Zone from 2' down to 8" OR less. This exercise teaches the dog that remaining close to you while heeling is the wise choice to make at all times. It also reduces the constant need to make turns to teach the dog that remaining close to you while heeling is the wise choice to make at all times. Rather impressive how fast the dogs learn when you incorporate the Heeling Posts as part of your everyday training routine.
Include the Sit/Stay here, there and everywhere. By end of Day 4, dog should be able to hold a Sit/Stay @ 2 1/2’ for 60 consecutive seconds. Include the Stand here, there and everywhere. By Day 6, dog should be able to hold a Stand for 60 consecutive seconds.
Week 3: Dog learns to take responsibility for heel position and to work away from handler
Pre/Post-Training Session protocol
__________________________________________________________________
Know when to use the OUT! in public. By now, you understand how to use the OUT! when your dog is doing the LLLL. In public, use of the OUT! may change in volume. There may be times when using your DRAGOON voice is not appropriate. Still, you can use the OUT! effectively by lowering the volume of your OUT! but not the pitch or intensity of the OUT! Dogs have remarkable hearing and read body language very well. They will hear a quiet, OUT! and read your body language clearly. In time, the HOMEWORK Week 2: The "OUT!" as demonstrated with a dam and her litterOUT! will be used at a distance and without any collar attached to the dog.
Review: Understanding the difference between a ‘correction’ and an ‘applied punisher’. Tony Ancheta, head of Koehler Dog Training, states the following:
“A leash and collar can be used as a correction - if the effect is to increase the frequency of a target behavior in the future.
A leash and collar can be used as a punisher - if the effect is to decrease the frequency of some unwanted behavior in the future.”
Let’s talk then about the “Out!” which is an Applied Punisher which means “STOP IT NOW”. There are 4 behaviors to watch for in a dog that justifies using the “OUT!” Remember, the 4 “L-s”
L = Look
L = Lock
L = Load
L = Lunge
When you want to “STOP” the dog’s behavior at the Look, or at the Lock, or at the Load. If the dog is already at the Lunge, it’s too late. Each dog has its own telltale signs of its LLLL dynamics so you watch the dog. For instance, a dog that is biting another dog or a human is already at the Lunge stage so the opportunity to effectively communicate to the said dog “STOP THIS NOW!” has passed. That doesn’t mean you don’t use the “OUT!”, it just means you need to pay more attention to that dog to know what its LLLL dynamics are respond more quickly.
For instance. Can you use the “OUT!” when the dog has a dirty thought, is eyeing another dog, is growling or hackled and thinking about lunging? Yes. Where? Look at it from this perspective.
Dog has a dirty thought = Look
Dog is eyeing another dog = Lock
Dog is growling or hackling = Load
At any of these first three “L’s”, use the “OUT!” to stop the dog’s behavior. If you wait….
Dog lunges = Lunge. The action is done already. So pay attention to your dog, learn to recognize their specific LLLL dynamics, and respond correctly, timely and effectively. Remember:
A leash and collar can be used as a punisher - if the effect is to decrease the frequency of some unwanted behavior in the future.” This is when the leash and collar is the punisher for using “OUT!”
_____________________________________________________________________________
New Material:
Heeling mechanics taught this week put more responsibility on the dog to find ‘the Safety Zone’ by your left side, including Pace Changes. Dog will also learn to work away from you and maintain responsibility for its position.
During Week 1, the LL ‘the Safety Zone’ was a 5’ radius on your left side.
Week 2 on heeling on the leash, the ‘the Safety Zone’ was 3’ by your left side. The dog’s head is aligned with the seam of your left pant leg, his rear should be in line with this head while his shoulders/hips travel the same parallel line you are walking. Pace used is Normal = a pace that keeps the dog striding out (no time for lollygagging) where the dog must focus on handler in order to ‘read’ its body language.
Week 3, ‘the Safety Zone’ shrinks to within a 15" - 18" radius on your left side. This allows the knee to do the work load communicating to the dog, as you making your turns, what direction it is to go.
Pace changes introduced of Slow = ½ the speed of Normal, handler walks more on their heels, shoulders back as they slow up. Dog can read the subtle body changes and learn to understand the shift in how handler walks means to slow its pace. Pace changes introduced of FAST = 2x the speed of Normal, handlers left elbow is bend at 90 degree angle and left arm held at chest height and free-swinging. Handler’s body should lean forward also as handler breaks into a run. . Dog can read these body changes and learn to understand the shift in how handler moves means to increase its pace.
THIS WEEK TURNS ARE NO LONGER REFERRED TO AS‘TRAINING TURNS’ but simply referred to as ‘turns’.
Dog is forging ahead of you = Right About Turn (t, t, baby step, full step making a 180 degree turn on a straight line)
Dog is lagging behind or wide (more than 2’) away from you = Right Turn (take a sharp 90 degree turn to your right then take 1-2 running steps and continue to heel)
Dog is just beginning to forge ahead of you (within 1’ of your left leg) = Left Turn (snub leash up with left hand on thigh as you simultaneously make sharp left turn into your dog’s chest and continue to heel)
SIT/STAY
Days 1 & 2 dog is learning, for the first time, to hold a position. So, to set the dog up for success, we start close to the dog, in low levels of distractions, for very short times (seconds). When you come to a Halt, give the hand signal close to the dogs eye and either the dog does an Auto Sit (no verbal from you) in 1 second OR gets a Sit Correction.
From there, work the collar high and snug clear under the chin of the dog, the feed of the leash comes out between the dogs ears on the top of the dogs head and you hold the leash with slight upward pressure (left hand) to keep the collar from slipping, then take your right hand with leash in it and replace your left hand still maintaining slight upward pressure.
Command the dog “Sit” (it is the polite thing to do even though the dog is already in a Sit, the verbal Sit at this point reinforces the dogs understanding), use your left hand, fingers open, a few inches in front of dogs face as you command, “Stay”, step off with your right foot as you turn and face your dog approximately 1’ away continuing the slight upward pressure on leash.
Wait 10 seconds, smile at your dog, then Step Back to your Dog, relax the leash pressure (slack leash and right hand back into Walking Position), praise your dog.
End each Sit/Stay with an Exercise Finish (1 step halt/auto Sit). Start with 10 seconds, then 15 seconds, and up to 60 seconds where dog holds its Sit/Stay position without moving. If the dog moves, simply step towards dog, do 2 hands on leash and a Sit Correction, then step back to facing the dog. If dog is struggling to hold at 30 seconds, make sure levels of distractions are low and go back to doing Sit/Stay at 20 seconds or 10 seconds. The point is the dog needs to understands Stay = Stay and we are going to help set the dog up to succeed.
As dog understands Stay=Stay, increase the time from 10 seconds all the way up to 60 seconds. Test the dogs understanding at 60 seconds by also increasing the levels of distractions. By end of Day 2, dog should be able to hold a Sit/Stay for 60 seconds in high levels of distractions.
Days 3 & 4 are the same mechanics, but the distance between dog and handler now goes from 1’ to approximately 1 ½ feet away from dog (1 and ½ steps). Same method, same sequencing. Start at 10 seconds in low levels of distractions, praise (smile) or correct, Step Back to Dog, slack leash, praise,& Exercise Finish. Then increase time to 20 seconds, repeat method/sequencing, then 30 seconds etc., up to a minute.
Always the same method and sequencing is used. *IMPORTANT* What changes? When you increase the distance, you must start over with the shortest time and the lowest level of distraction. As dog gains understanding in what you want it to do, then you increase time and distraction levels.
Days 5 & 6 are the same mechanics, but the distance between dog and handler now goes from 1 1/2’ to approximately 5’ away from dog (2 and ½ steps). Same method, same sequencing. Start at 10 seconds in low levels of distractions, praise (smile) or correct, Step Back to Dog, slack leash, praise,& Exercise Finish. Then increase time to 20 seconds, repeat method/sequencing, then 30 seconds etc., up to a minute.
Always the same method and sequencing is used. *IMPORTANT* What changes? When you increase the distance, you must start over with the shortest time and the lowest level of distraction. As dog gains understanding in what you want it to do, then you increase time and distraction levels.
STAND-DONE SILENTLY
Days 1-3 dog is learning, for the first time, to hold a new position. Just like the Sit, the Stand is taught silently for the first 3 days so no commands, you are just shaping the dog. So, to set the dog up for success, start in low levels of distractions, for very short times (seconds). From a Sit, the right hand pulls leash ever so slightly forward in front of dogs face about 2-4”. At the same time, handlers right foot moves from heel position to approx 1’ (depends on size of dog) at a 90 degree angle so dog doesn’t Stand and move forward very much. The left foot then moves between the dogs front/rear legs and will act as energy to move dog away from feet (stand) as the left hand strokes down dogs left side and gently lifts dog up with left hand on stomach.
Once the dog is in a Stand, handler is to stroke dog from head to shoulders ONLY. THIS IS NOT PETTING OR FONDLING, this is a deliberate light, ever so gentle, almost a tease stroke where dog will straighten up higher to get this sensation. This is called Conditioned Relaxation so this move needs to be pleasurable to the dog. You can also hover or bend over the dog to do the Conditioned Relaxation move as you want the dog comfortable with you being over its back. You will need this for Week 4 when the Down is taught.
There is NO correction for a Stand. YOU NEVER, EVER WANT A DOG TO SIT FROM A STAND AT THIS POINT IN THE TRAINING (and a broken Stand is ghastly to repair). So, should the dog move a foot, simply do an Exercise Finish immediately! Don’t wait, don’t get your leash in proper position, just move as you say “Heel”. The point is to help the dog to succeed so we ‘help’ the dog, should it move, by spitting out the command “Heel” like it was our idea all along.
You will want to go from 10 seconds to by the end of Day 6, dog stands beside you for 60 consecutive seconds.
*REMEMBER* There is NO correction for a Stand. YOU NEVER, EVER WANT A DOG TO SIT FROM A STAND AT THIS POINT IN THE TRAINING (and a broken Stand is ghastly to repair). So, should the dog move a foot, simply do an Exercise Finish immediately! Don’t wait, don’t get your leash in proper position, just move as you say “Heel”. The point is to help the dog to succeed so we ‘help’ the dog, should it move, by spitting out the command “Heel” like it was our idea all along.
You will want to go from 10 seconds to by the end of Day 3, dog stands beside you for 60 consecutive seconds.
PLACE
Days 1 & 2 use the Place Board to "Place" your dog on the board. Start close each time and send your dog to Place. As soon as steps up on board, use bridging word, "Yes" to encourage. "Place" is one of the few times you CAN repeat the command, so continue to command, "Place" until dog is on board. All 4 feet are to be on board at all times - once dog is on board, back away the full length of the leash. Should dog put one foot, or two, etc., on the ground, repeat your command and put them on the Place Board again. DO NOT START OVER...just get them back on the board. Dog must remain on board until you call dog off with a "Fido, Ok" or do a Return to your Dog.
Days 3 & 4 use the Place Board + the Negative Space on top of board to "Place" your dog on the board with the Negative Space. This is harder as the Negative Space can move off the Place Board. You are training your dog to get used to the PVC pipe and to step OVER the pipe. This teaches the dog responsibility in where it places its body Start close each time and send your dog to Place. As soon as dog steps up on board, use bridging word, "Yes" to encourage. "Place" is one of the few times you CAN repeat the command, so continue to command, "Place" until dog is on board. All 4 feet are to be on board at all times - once dog is on board, back away the full length of the leash. Should dog put one foot, or two, etc., on the ground, repeat your command and put them on the Place Board again. DO NOT START OVER...just get them back on the board. Dog must remain on board until you call dog off with a "Fido, Ok" or do a Return to your Dog. .
Days 5 & 6 use the Negative Space ONLY to "Place" your dog inside the Negative Space. THIS IS THE HARDEST OF ALL for the dog as the ground surfaces are the same inside and outside the Negative Space. Dog must remain inside the Negative Space until you call it out. Start close each time and send your dog to Place. As soon as steps up on board, use bridging word, "Yes" to encourage. "Place" is one of the few times you CAN repeat the command, so continue to command, "Place" until dog is on board. All 4 feet are to be on board at all times - once dog is on board, back away the full length of the leash. Should dog put one foot, or two, etc., on the ground, repeat your command and put them on the Place Board again. DO NOT START OVER...just get them back on the board. Dog must remain on board until you call dog off with a "Fido, Ok" or do a Return to your Dog.
Dog is to be placed on Place Board with Negative Space on top 20 x a day. You can call the dog off the board doing a release command, “Fido, Ok” or doing a Return to Your Dog (see video).
HEELING PATTERNS
Days 1 & 2 Increase your heeling distance/times. Include the Right About Turn, the Right Turn, the Left Turn, Pace changes of Normal, Slow and Fast, many Halts & Auto Sits now ( no verbal, just hands beside dog if they don’t sit within 1 second, hands become the Sit Correction). After every Sit, add an Exercise Finish (1 step halt/auto sit), then continue your heeling.
HEELING POSTS: As part of your heeling this week, find a place you can do the Heeling Posts on your dogs left side. Always, remember to start about 4-5' away on the first straight pass, then come closer and pass Heeling Post from 3-4' away, again on a straight pass, then come closer and pass the Heeling Post from 2-3' away, again on a straight pass. The final pass should be within 1'. The point of this exercise is to reduce the Safety Zone from 3' down to 1' OR less. This exercise teaches the dog that remaining close to you while heeling is the wise choice to make at all times. It also reduces the constant need to make turns to teach the dog that remaining close to you while heeling is the wise choice to make at all times. Rather impressive how fast the dogs learn when you incorporate the Heeling Posts as part of your everyday training routine.
Include the Sit/Stay here, there and everywhere. By end of Day 2, dog should be able to hold a Sit/Stay for 60 consecutive seconds. Include the Stand here, there and everywhere. By Day 3, dog should be able to hold a Stand for 60 consecutive seconds.
Dog is to be placed on Place Board 20 x a day. You can call the dog off the board doing a release command, “Fido, Ok” or doing a Return to Your Dog (see video).
Days 3 & 4 Increase your heeling distance/times. Include the Right About Turn, the Right Turn, the Left Turn, Pace changes of Normal, Slow and Fast, many Halts & Auto Sits now ( no verbal, just hands beside dog if they don’t sit within 1 second, hands become the Sit Correction). After every Sit, add an Exercise Finish (1 step halt/auto sit), then continue your heeling.
Body Bend Readiness Test due Day 4
Days 5 & 6 Heeling: Increase your heeling distance/times. Include the Right About Turn, the Right Turn, the Left Turn, Pace changes of Normal, Slow and Fast, many Halts & Auto Sits now ( no verbal, just hands beside dog if they don’t sit within 1 second, hands become the Sit Correction). After every Sit, add an Exercise Finish (1 step halt/auto sit), then continue your heeling.
HEELING POSTS: As part of your heeling this week, find a place you can do the Heeling Posts on your dogs left side. Now, on Days 5 & 6, start on the first straight pass of the Heeling Post from 1' - 2' away, again within 1' and the final pass should be with the Heeling Posts only 6" from your dogs left side.
The point of this exercise is to reduce the Safety Zone from 2' down to 8" OR less. This exercise teaches the dog that remaining close to you while heeling is the wise choice to make at all times. It also reduces the constant need to make turns to teach the dog that remaining close to you while heeling is the wise choice to make at all times. Rather impressive how fast the dogs learn when you incorporate the Heeling Posts as part of your everyday training routine.
Include the Sit/Stay here, there and everywhere. By end of Day 4, dog should be able to hold a Sit/Stay @ 2 1/2’ for 60 consecutive seconds. Include the Stand here, there and everywhere. By Day 6, dog should be able to hold a Stand for 60 consecutive seconds.
Week 3 Readiness Test due end of Day 6
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